King of maximalist make-up Gary Cockerill has worked his ‘more is
more’ style on such glamourpusses as Katie Price, Melanie Sykes and
Now he’s spilling his secrets in his makeover bible. We’ve got a step-by-step guide to his ultimate 60s sex kitten transformation.
How to apply your base (Image: Vikki Grant)
STEP 1 Cleanse, hydrate and prime the skin, and address any blemishes with concealer. Then apply cream foundation all over for a flawless complexion.
STEP 2 Contour with two shades of cream foundation: one of them needs to be 2-3 shades darker than your natural skin tone, and the other 2-3 shades lighter.
Gary says, “Contouring is the art of using light and dark to enhance certain features and play down others, and works on the principle that light shades bring facial features forward, while dark shades push them back.”
The model has a long, rectangular face. I wanted to balance this out, so first I applied the darker shade to her temples and jawline to soften them.
I used the darker shade to slim down her nose and create depth around the eye socket. I also used the darker shade below the cheekbones to make them look more sculpted.
Then I applied the lighter colour under the eyes, on the centre of her nose, across her chin and forehead, as well as above the cheekbones. These were the areas I wanted to brighten and bring forward.
STEP 3 Blend the hard edges with a soft blending brush and set with translucent powder.
How to get sexy winged eyes
STEP 1 Fill in brows with a brown matt powder. “To exaggerate the shape, I took the colour slightly above the natural arch and blended it to outer corners.”
STEP 2 Create the illusion of bigger eyes by applying warm, off-white matte eyeshadow over the lid and up to the brow bone.
Gary says, “I then used a small angled brush to apply black gel liner on the upper lash line, winging it out and up at the outer corners. This is about exaggerating the line and taking it further out – it might not feel natural when you’re drawing it, but it looks so effective.
Go over the line with matt black eyeshadow to soften it.
STEP 3 Using a small angled brush, draw a crease slightly above the natural socket line in charcoal matt eyeshadow.
Gary says, “I connected the end of this line with the outer tip of the winged eyeliner and filled in the triangle with charcoal eyeshadow to emphasise the outer corner of the eye.”
STEP 4 Curl the lashes and apply a coat of black mascara before adding a full strip of doll-like false lashes for that exaggerated 1960s look.
Gary adds, “To increase the wide-eyed effect, I then applied a strip to the bottom lashes and added another coat of mascara to the roots of the upper lashes. Full strip lashes can be fiddly though – adding individual lashes to the outer edge gives a softer finish that may suit you better.”
Pro tip: Hold your eyelid taut when you apply the liner to help keep the line straight and smooth.
STEP 1 All the drama is on the eyes, so counterbalance with a classic nude lip. First apply a little foundation all over the lips to neutralise the natural pigment.
Step 2 (Image: Vikki Grant)
STEP 2 Next, outline the lips with a nude lip pencil drawing the line just outside the natural lip line.
Gary says, “Then I filled in the shape and blotted thelips with a tissue for greater staying power.”
Step 3 (Image: Vikki Grant)
STEP 3 Using a lip brush, apply creamy nude lipstick all over the lips.
Gary says, “To make the lips fuller, I applied champagne highlighter above the upper lip and added gloss to the middle of the bottom lip.”
Adapted from Simply Glamorous: Make-Up Transformations To Make You Look & Feel Fabulous by Gary Cockerill, published by Jacqui Small, £25